​“Blue-green Algae” - A Bloom Worth Avoiding

The long anticipated warm rays of summer bring with them the bloom of bright yellow, deep purple, and sky-blue wildflowers, dotting the sides of our alpine grasslands, adding much needed color to this beautiful landscape we call home. However, not all of the blooms are benign and worth celebrating.
Lurking beneath the surface of shallow, warm, fresh water lakes and ponds is an organism that, when ignored, has the potential to make our four-legged companions very sick, and is even occasionally fatal.
 

What is “Blue-green” Algae?

Cyanobacteria are a collection of microorganisms that are often referred to as “blue-green algae”, because of characteristics and appearance that resemble plant matter, namely their ability to undergo photosynthesis, which gives them their green color. Rather than true algae, cyanobacteria are actually a group of gram-negative bacteria. In colder months and in the presence of moving, mineral poor water cyanobacteria are generally in low numbers and are not visible to the naked eye. However, in the warmer months of the year when shallow bodies of water become stagnant and relatively nutrient-rich due to low influx of new water in the form of rain, cyanobacteria will overgrow and produce striking blooms that are often observed near shorelines and can even stretch across the entire surface of a pond. These blooms range in color from deep, mossy green to a cyanotic blue-green.
In this evolving world, organisms of all shapes and sizes do everything in their power to give them a leg-up on their competition. One of my favorite examples is something many of us exploit every single day. Plants produce caffeine to harm the central nervous systems of insects that would love to eat them, the by-product of which is our delicious cappuccino. Cyanobacteria, on the other hand, produce and release a variety of species-specific toxins that limit growth of other microorganisms and plant matter to allow for their large blooms. In small amounts, these toxins are almost negligible to larger animals. However, in the event of a “blue-green algae” bloom, these toxins can accumulate in large enough amounts to cause serious illness in dogs, cats, and even people. The most common toxins affect the liver, the skin, and the central nervous system.

What do I look for?

The first and most common clinical signs associated with cyanobacteria toxicosis include vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, pale gums, and collapse. Additional signs include jaundice, depression, hemorrhage, respiratory distress, seizures, imbalance, and changes in urine frequency. Clinical signs can progress and become life-threatening within HOURS of exposure. One of the most important pieces of this puzzle is your pet’s history. A dog that has been watching a nature documentary on your couch all day likely doesn’t have cyanobacteria toxicosis. However, if you just returned from a hike to a lake or pond in the summer with your water-loving dog and they begin to show these signs (even if you didn’t see an obvious blue-green bloom), I would start to worry there may have been exposure and visit your vet as soon as humanly possible.

Treatment and Outcome
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Pets with cyanobacteria toxicosis can become very sick and even pass away before an owner realizes they need to go to the vet. Because of that, AVOIDANCE IS KEY! If you are out this summer with your furry friend, rivers and deep, cold alpine lakes are usually safe, but PLEASE do not let them swim in shallow, warm, stagnant bodies of water, even if they look clean. If you are worried that there has been exposure, please treat it like an emergency and bring your pet in to be seen. Treatment consists of making your animal vomit, administering activated charcoal to bind toxins, controlling neurologic signs and seizures with medications, IV fluid therapy, and treating a variety of other clinical signs. There is no specific cure for cyanobacteria, but rather a combination of therapies that constitute supportive care. Many animals exposed to cyanobacteria recover just fine, but there are certainly some that do not. AVOIDANCE IS KEY!
As we enter into another beautiful summer in the Rocky Mountains, try to enjoy nature to the fullest. Identify the songbirds, explore the forests for virgin waterfalls, and chase the sun as it passes from the east to the western horizon, lighting up the sky in shades of purple and orange. When looking for blooms, however, remember to stick to the flowers; “blue-green algae” is a bloom worth avoiding. 

It’s that time of year.  Summer has officially arrived and if your dog is like mine, she can’t get enough of the lakes
and streams this time of year.  Every year over the warm summer months we see dogs coming into the clinic for ‘smelly wet dog’ syndrome.  Allow me to explain.

Dogs, just like people, carry bacteria and yeast on their skin at all times.  These organisms are kept in check by the dog’s immune system when the dog is healthy.  The skin has natural barriers in place to help keep the bacteria and yeast in check.  When dogs get wet the skin surface softens and those barriers get broken down.  Typically this only becomes an issue when the skin is wet for an extended period of time.  Because dogs have so much fur they tend to trap and hold water on the underside of the body, the armpits, the groin, under the ears or collar.  When these areas remain wet for too long, those natural barriers get broken down and the bacteria are allowed to invade and cause infection.  This can range from a few small bumps to severe deep (and painful!) infections.  Often the first thing people notice is their dog seems to smell more.  With the feet, because they tend to have more yeast, people will notice a more yeasty smell that some people equate to the smell of corn chips. 

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Ok, so what do we do to keep them healthy?  First of all regular bathing with a mild shampoo is a good idea.  This helps remove the ‘funk’ of some bodies of water.  Sometimes rinsing is enough to help keep them comfortable.  Be careful of bathing your dog too often as the shampoos can strip the natural oils of the fur and dry out the skin making them more susceptible to infection.  Make sure after swimming, your dog is allowed to thoroughly dry.  You can towel them down or some dogs will tolerate a fan.  At home I towel my dog off then put a dry towel on her dog bed for her to lay on for a few hours.  I also recommend removing collars to allow the neck to dry out better. 

Some dogs are more prone to ear infections and swimming can make it easier for those to get started.  If you are concerned about the ears, or they are starting to smell, it’s a good idea to rinse the ears with an ear cleaning solution.   The purpose of ear cleaner is twofold; first, it helps to remove wax and debris from the deep canal, but secondarily these often contain a drying agent to help displace water and encourage the ear canal to dry thoroughly. 

Should you discover infection or discharge we recommend you seek medical care for your dog.  Most dogs with skin or ear infections will require antibiotics and some of the more severe infections can be quite painful.  Please consult your veterinarian should you have any questions or concerns. 

​As ever, have a wonderful summer, enjoy the outdoors and happy swimming! 

Recently I was asked to speak about what I carry in my hiking pack for first aid supplies for my dog.  In general I carry a few supplies with me, in my pack, and in the car I have a larger first aid kit.  This is by no means an exhaustive list but it is what has worked for me through the years.  The goal of these supplies is to provide basic stabilization to be able to get back to the car and then into the veterinary or emergency office for further care. 


​I do not ever recommend trail side surgery for any reason.  There are far too many things that can go wrong if wounds are not properly assessed, explored and cleaned.  Canine and feline skin is incredibly mobile  which means that the wound you see on the surface may have corresponding damage to the tissues inches away under the skin.  These things can be tricky so when in doubt please have your pet assessed by a veterinarian ASAP.


​In my pack I carry the following: 

• An ace bandage.
  • Small, can be used to stabilize or as a sling or bandage material.
• A dog boot and sock.
  • My dog hates wearing boots but if she slices her pad or tears a nail, this will keep it clean and help control bleeding, use either dog socks (yes, they make them) or toddler socks.
• A knife. 
  • Basic pocket knife or multi-tool.
• Maxi pads. 
  • Women's sanitary napkins come conveniently individually packaged and make fantastic bandage material.  Guys talk to the women in your life, they'll get you the right products (unscented, individually wrapped).
• Slip leashes (2). 
  • The basic leash you will see at dog parks and veterinary offices.  Most veterinary offices have these hanging by the front door if you need one.  They roll up into tiny parcels and can be used for everything from a sling to a muzzle to a belt.  They are super handy!
• Cable cutter. 
  • Different from a knife, designed specifically to cut cable should the dog get tangled up.
• Bandage material. 
  • A single large (4 inch by 4 inch) telfa pad, small amount of gauze,  roll of vetrap.
• Benadryl 25mg tablets. 
  • Given as a treatment for allergic reactions and or bee or wasp stings, you can give approximately 1 mg of Benadryl per pound.  Do NOT give more than 50 mg to a large dog. 
  • ***PLEASE do not give your pet any other human medications!***
• Tweezers and nail clippers.

At the car I have:

• Eye wash /sterile saline flush
• More gauze, telfa pads and vetrap
• Examination gloves
• Saran wrap
• Standard band-aids
• Triple antibiotic ointment

We hope you will never have to use any of these supplies, but wish you all safe and happy times while exploring our trails!
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​Most dog owners are aware and on the lookout for many potential hazards their pets may encounter in the outdoors such as cars, porcupines, or other wildlife.  However, you may not be aware that grass is a potential hazard to your pet. 
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What is Cheat Grass and Why is it Such a Problem?
Cheat grass is an annual, invasive grass that comes back year after year.  Cheat grass is sometimes also referred to as foxtails, mean seeds, June grass among others.  Regardless of what you call it or what the actual species of grass is, they all have awns which can be problematic for dogs and cats.  The awn is the bristle-like appendage that grows from the flower of many grasses.  The purpose of awn spikes is to stick and hold onto surfaces in order to spread their seeds to distant locations.  Unfortunately, the sharp nature of these spikes can result in penetration through the skin or become embedded in nearly any location.  Commonly, they become lodged in the nose, eyes, ears, and between the toes of dogs.  Other routes of exposure may include inhalation or swallowing.  Grass awns become problematic when they go unrecognized or are not removed.  

​Signs of Problematic Grass Awns
The symptoms depend largely on the part of the body that is affected.  For a grass awn in the nose, usually sneezing or pawing at the face/ excessive rubbing is the first sign noted.  This can progress to nasal discharge.  Dogs with awns stuck in their ears often shake their heads.  One of the most common places grass awns get stuck is in between the toes of dogs.  You may or may not see a puncture hole where the seed entered.  Often, these dogs lick their feet or limp. Occasionally, you may see a red swelling between the toes or paw pads.  Other signs of infection may indicate a problematic grass awn.  Non-specific signs such as lethargy, decreases appetite, painful swellings, redness, or lameness may be observed. 

Should You Remove Grass Awns at Home?
Awns that are attached to the coat or hair can be removed by hand or brushed out.  Removal of awns that are embedded is trickier.  These awns often have barbs, or hooks, anchoring them in tissue and favoring forward migration.  Attempts to pull seeds out may results in breakage leaving pieces in tissue.  Subsequently, inflammation and infection may result.  The aggressive nature of these awns can even result in migration to the lungs, brain, spinal cord, abdominal cavity, almost anywhere really.  They can become a very serious problem.  Early recognition and examination are the best way to prevent further damage by the grass awn.  Often it is necessary to sedate the patient in order to remove the grass awn in its entirety.

How Can You Protect Your Dog?
Avoiding contact with problematic grasses is the best way to prevent grass awn issues.  However, this is nearly impossible. Dry, grassy fields should be avoided if possible. Dogs with medium/long hair should have the hair between the toes and paw pads clipped short. It may be beneficial to have the underside of your dog groomed short to avoid picking up seeds.  Additionally, dogs with hairy ears should have the hair trimmed short.  If you have working dogs or your dog spends a lot of time running through tall grasses, you may want to purchase a vest.  It is important as an owner to take some time to look over your dog especially after he or she has been out in grassy fields.  Don’t forget to check in between their toes!  Dog boots may be beneficial as well.
It is important not to underestimate the potential seriousness of grass awns. 
 

A group of scientists were visiting our Army working dog kennel to assess the feasibility of establishing a K9 research lab.  While the Kennel Big-wig schmoozed with the Science Big-wig, the rest of us hung in the background.  One of the scientists leaned over to me and asked, “Do you think it’s feasible to design a study to measure VO2 max in dogs?  We’re looking at improving physical performance in working dogs.”  “Sure it’s feasible, but in my opinion, the rate-limiting factor for performance is going to be thermoregulation; his ability to dump heat, not his VO2 max.”  The scientist looked startled for a second then grinned, “It’s interesting you say that.  DARPA (Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency) is investigating a similar approach with human performance.  We need to talk some more.”

My interest was piqued, and after some Googling, I found what he was talking about.  Scientists at DARPA had found that by regulating the temperature of exercising muscles, they could increase muscular endurance and improve overall work output.  I had come onto my own cruder ideas from running my dog, Remo, every morning in the woods around the kennel to validate a physical training (PT) program for working dogs.  The trainers had come to me several months earlier asking for a PT plan that would work both the dogs and their handlers at the same time.  They rejected my proposal immediately, which only spurred me to prove them wrong. 

Summertime in Missouri is brutal.  The temperature and humidity start climbing before the sun cracks the horizon, and our training was done in the early morning darkness.  Unlike humans, dogs do not use evaporative cooling (they have a few sweat glands, but not enough), and they rely on transpiration through panting.  A dog’s normal resting rectal temperature runs between 100 – 103 degrees F.  A temperature above 103 can be from a fever (due to some underlying medical condition), or hyperthermia (from exertional or environmental causes).  When a dog’s temperature is out of spec, the enzymes and proteins begin to deform, and the biochemical pathways that keep the engine humming start to fail.  There is massive inflammation, and the body reacts on a grand scale, which just makes things worse.  Blood begins to leak out of compromised vessels, organs get damaged trying to deal with toxic byproducts, and the circulatory and nervous system collapse with shock. 

The book says that a sustained body temperature above 106 degrees F can lead to permanent physiological changes, but we measured plenty of dogs running up there during my time training in Missouri, and a consistent sign of stress was performance decline.  Even with the early morning starts, I noticed drops in Remo’s performance towards the middle of the workout.  He was in good physical shape, so I suspected it was the heat.  I began to plan our route so that we stopped at a small fishing pond at the halfway point. 

After weighing the potential water hazards (giardia, leptospirosis, blue-green algae, water moccasins, etc.), I allowed him a swim to cool off.  I immediately noticed an improvement in his performance, and he continued strong throughout the rest of the ruck run.  The half-way swim became a regular part of our morning routine.  This is not to say that simply swimming a dog will solve all problems.  There are numerous variables that will affect each case:

• Individual characteristics:  age, physical condition (obesity, etc.), underlying medical conditions (laryngeal paralysis, heart disease, etc.).
• Breed characteristics:  brachycephalic (flat nose) breeds, body shape and haircoat, athleticism, innate tolerance. 
• Environmental conditions:  Temperature and humidity, ground surface (asphalt/concrete vs. dirt/grass), shade and wind, other hazards (infected or contaminated water, physical hazards, etc.)

 
The take home lesson is to carefully design activities and establish conditions to PREVENT heat injuries before they occur, or else leave the dog at home.

Treating a K9 heat injury is not a straightforward process.  Overzealous cooling can lead to rebound hypothermia and a whole separate can of worms.  Hospitalization of a patient is an intensive and costly endeavor of playing catch-up-and-treat based on the severity of the signs, with no guarantees.  Prevention is always the better alternative.  We continued to train, and after several mornings of a trim and lean Remo running past a formation of handlers with their fat dogs, they started to come around.  Remo continued to be the guinea pig for other trials which led to future obstacle course, rappelling, climbing, fast-rope, and helo-cast training, but always with the health and longevity of the dogs in mind.  It became a fun time to be a working dog handler, and we never lost a dog to heat along the way.
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Remo is older now, with a lot of mileage and some other medical issues, but he still gets exercised regularly along with his younger ‘sister’.  We’re only as fast as our slowest ‘man’, and Remo sets the pace, no matter how far, fast, or hard the rest of us want to go.  

​Tick Borne Disease
 
Spring is here, the grass is green, the creeks are high, and the ticks are out!  Springtime is the time the ticks are most actively questing for food sources after a long winter.  Ticks attach via their mouthparts and will take a blood meal and engorge (swell up) before detaching.  After coming out of dormancy in the spring, the ticks are hungry and eager to feed.  This means that early spring is the time we see more ticks on our domestic animals. 
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According to the CDC, the primary species of tick found in Montana are the Brown Dog Tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus), Rocky Mountain Wood Tick (Dermacentor andersoni), and the American Dog Tick (Dermacentor variabilis).  The American Dog Tick is primarily found in eastern Montana, whereas the Brown dog tick and the Rocky Mountain Wood Tick are found throughout the state. 
 

Aside from being a nuisance and a parasite, ticks are known to transmit bacteria, viruses and protozoa to other animals, including humans.  In Montana, the disease we worry about the most is Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF).  All three species of ticks found in Montana can transmit RMSF.  RMSF is transmitted after a tick has attached and has begun to feed.  The tick needs to fully attach before transmission can occur.  Additionally nymphal ticks (immature stages of development) can also transmit disease.
These immature stages can be extremely small and difficult to see. 


Ok, so what do we do about it?  Prevention:  Several products are on the market to prevent ticks from attaching or to kill them when they bite the dog or cat.  Talk to your veterinarian about medication options and what is right for your pet. 

​Avoid folklore remedies such as "painting" the tick with nail polish or petroleum jelly, or using heat to make the tick detach from the skin. Your goal is to remove the tick as quickly as possible–not waiting for it to detach.
Resources:
https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/index.html
https://www.cdc.gov/rmsf/
 
                

Richard moved to Bozeman Montana with his Golden Pyrenees mix, “Sandy”.  He wanted a friend for his girl, and Heart of the Valley had a beautiful Australian Shepherd available for adoption.  Heart of the Valley called this girl, who had been deaf from birth, “Penny”.   When Richard met Penny, he said, “What does that matter?” and changed her name to PennyWhat.  They adopted each other right away and the fun began.  Richard taught PennyWhat hand signals and the three of them had many adventures hiking in the mountains around Bozeman.


​As time passed, Sandy took her final hike to the Rainbow Bridge, and Richard decided that PennyWhat needed a new friend.  After searching online, Richard found the Double J Dog Ranch in Idaho.  The Double J cares and finds forever homes for dogs with disabilities. Driving through the smoke of the forest fires, Richard and PennyWhat traveled 400 plus miles to meet a four year old mini Australian shepherd that looked like he could be PennyWhat’s twin, only smaller. He too had been deaf from birth, and soon became known as LokiWhat.  PennyWhat and LokiWhat became instant best friends. Richard knew there was something special about these two, and decided to give them a job.

Richard began with basic training for PennyWhat and LokiWhat.  In their class, the two of them sat, laid down, and did everything together.  Their instructor was amazed.  Trying to find a dog trainer for deaf therapy dogs became a challenge, but finally, the Alliance of Therapy Dogs agreed.

So the journey began.  The What dogs have a job!  All three are giving back to our community, with regular visits to Bozeman Health, offering comfort to patients there.  Their most recent adventure was visiting the Veteran’s Hospital at Fort Harrison in Helena, Montana.  LokiWhat and Richard spent over 4 hours visiting soldiers there.  Richard says it was a wonderful experience giving back to our country and soldiers.   

Richard is looking forward to a busy year with the Therapy What Dogs and although the What dogs cannot hear, they hear with their hearts. Richard says that when their vests go on, they know it’s time to work!  When they’re not working, they are off exploring the mountains in this beautiful valley.  We are so proud of these two and are very happy and grateful to care for these beloved dogs.

Thank you for all you do Richard, PennyWhat and LokiWhat!

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​Montana is known for long winters,  and cold weather coupled with treacherous terrain can make it difficult to get out and exercise our dogs.  The resulting abundance of energy can manifest as naughty behaviors in the home.  You might notice inappropriate chewing, counter surfing, excessive barking, or maybe your dog will leap up to sprint laps around the house!