It’s that time of year.  Summer has officially arrived and if your dog is like mine, she can’t get enough of the lakes
and streams this time of year.  Every year over the warm summer months we see dogs coming into the clinic for ‘smelly wet dog’ syndrome.  Allow me to explain.

Dogs, just like people, carry bacteria and yeast on their skin at all times.  These organisms are kept in check by the dog’s immune system when the dog is healthy.  The skin has natural barriers in place to help keep the bacteria and yeast in check.  When dogs get wet the skin surface softens and those barriers get broken down.  Typically this only becomes an issue when the skin is wet for an extended period of time.  Because dogs have so much fur they tend to trap and hold water on the underside of the body, the armpits, the groin, under the ears or collar.  When these areas remain wet for too long, those natural barriers get broken down and the bacteria are allowed to invade and cause infection.  This can range from a few small bumps to severe deep (and painful!) infections.  Often the first thing people notice is their dog seems to smell more.  With the feet, because they tend to have more yeast, people will notice a more yeasty smell that some people equate to the smell of corn chips. 

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Ok, so what do we do to keep them healthy?  First of all regular bathing with a mild shampoo is a good idea.  This helps remove the ‘funk’ of some bodies of water.  Sometimes rinsing is enough to help keep them comfortable.  Be careful of bathing your dog too often as the shampoos can strip the natural oils of the fur and dry out the skin making them more susceptible to infection.  Make sure after swimming, your dog is allowed to thoroughly dry.  You can towel them down or some dogs will tolerate a fan.  At home I towel my dog off then put a dry towel on her dog bed for her to lay on for a few hours.  I also recommend removing collars to allow the neck to dry out better. 

Some dogs are more prone to ear infections and swimming can make it easier for those to get started.  If you are concerned about the ears, or they are starting to smell, it’s a good idea to rinse the ears with an ear cleaning solution.   The purpose of ear cleaner is twofold; first, it helps to remove wax and debris from the deep canal, but secondarily these often contain a drying agent to help displace water and encourage the ear canal to dry thoroughly. 

Should you discover infection or discharge we recommend you seek medical care for your dog.  Most dogs with skin or ear infections will require antibiotics and some of the more severe infections can be quite painful.  Please consult your veterinarian should you have any questions or concerns. 

​As ever, have a wonderful summer, enjoy the outdoors and happy swimming! 

Recently I was asked to speak about what I carry in my hiking pack for first aid supplies for my dog.  In general I carry a few supplies with me, in my pack, and in the car I have a larger first aid kit.  This is by no means an exhaustive list but it is what has worked for me through the years.  The goal of these supplies is to provide basic stabilization to be able to get back to the car and then into the veterinary or emergency office for further care. 


​I do not ever recommend trail side surgery for any reason.  There are far too many things that can go wrong if wounds are not properly assessed, explored and cleaned.  Canine and feline skin is incredibly mobile  which means that the wound you see on the surface may have corresponding damage to the tissues inches away under the skin.  These things can be tricky so when in doubt please have your pet assessed by a veterinarian ASAP.


​In my pack I carry the following: 

• An ace bandage.
  • Small, can be used to stabilize or as a sling or bandage material.
• A dog boot and sock.
  • My dog hates wearing boots but if she slices her pad or tears a nail, this will keep it clean and help control bleeding, use either dog socks (yes, they make them) or toddler socks.
• A knife. 
  • Basic pocket knife or multi-tool.
• Maxi pads. 
  • Women's sanitary napkins come conveniently individually packaged and make fantastic bandage material.  Guys talk to the women in your life, they'll get you the right products (unscented, individually wrapped).
• Slip leashes (2). 
  • The basic leash you will see at dog parks and veterinary offices.  Most veterinary offices have these hanging by the front door if you need one.  They roll up into tiny parcels and can be used for everything from a sling to a muzzle to a belt.  They are super handy!
• Cable cutter. 
  • Different from a knife, designed specifically to cut cable should the dog get tangled up.
• Bandage material. 
  • A single large (4 inch by 4 inch) telfa pad, small amount of gauze,  roll of vetrap.
• Benadryl 25mg tablets. 
  • Given as a treatment for allergic reactions and or bee or wasp stings, you can give approximately 1 mg of Benadryl per pound.  Do NOT give more than 50 mg to a large dog. 
  • ***PLEASE do not give your pet any other human medications!***
• Tweezers and nail clippers.

At the car I have:

• Eye wash /sterile saline flush
• More gauze, telfa pads and vetrap
• Examination gloves
• Saran wrap
• Standard band-aids
• Triple antibiotic ointment

We hope you will never have to use any of these supplies, but wish you all safe and happy times while exploring our trails!
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